To effectively act at such a range, you tend to need uncanny means of detecting opponents, be it ridiculously high spot check or some divination magic/spotter, and very high attack bonuses or long range increments to act effectively. Most Cleric Archers and other non-Fighter Archers tend to operate at this range.
Stick ranger archer full#
At this range, you can generally pepper the opponent with a few full attacks before they close in to casting/melee range and free damage never hurt anyone. This is generally one-two increments away and a range where normal characters can still succeed their spot checks, so a good range to start an encounter at for a non-Precision Damage Archer in wilderness areas. This is generally also the maximum range you'll have to deal with in dungeons. If you can move after attack, this range gives you relative safety and alpha strike capability as an average movement speed of 30' cannot charge beyond 60'. This is the range for Precision Damage Dealers with range extending feats, such as a Swift Hunter with Ranged Skirmisher. This is also the standard move action, so acting at this range is almost as dangerous as fighting in melee. The common Swift Hunter Archer is going to want to visit this range quite often and this is also the range for a normal Rogue to Sneak Attack. This is the range for Point Blank Shot, Manyshot and the range limitation for most sorts of Precision Damage. Archery is easiest divided to range categories: SRD = System Reference Document Īrchery is a pretty large umbrella for a form of attacks, so a bit more accurate separation will help with dealing with particular builds and the capabilities we'll be looking for in each category. PF SRD = Pathfinder System Reference Document Not all of the sources are used in the present guide the listed abbreviation is what I'll be using should I happen to add material.įRCS = Forgotten Realms Campaign Settings (3.0) Purple options are godlike these are the cream of the crop and if you can, you should be picking them up.
Red options are rated as bad, and should by and large be avoided.īlack options are average and probably have specific niches or are good options in the absence of others, but are nothing special.īlue options are good options and if they happen to sync with what your character is doing, you should probably pick them up. The Market Deck doesn’t contain any Bow cards, but if you end up with a fast-paced deck that draws a bunch of cards, consider keeping the Ranger weapons as long as you can. The card-drawing combination of the Black Arrow cards and the Hunting Bow is pretty explosive. Once your deck is nice and thin, and you can see your victory on the horizon, the Horn will start to lose its appeal. The Ruby will often stick around to power your Track ability. This means a starting 5-card hand of Ruby, Horn, and 3 Gold will net you a 7-cost Champion. The Ruby makes 2 Gold, and the Horn makes 1 but also makes the next Champion you purchase 1 cheaper, so it’s effectively 2. Let’s take a look at the Ranger Starting deck…Īs always, the single Gold cards will be prime targets for Sacrifice, but pay attention to the buying power of your deck! They will find what they wish to find, and be found when they wish to be found.” – The Emperor’s Guide to Thandar. Their skills were learned through family and other mentors rather than from a book. “ The movements of Rangers are difficult to predict.
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